The landing looks like he's just 'swept off the loose stuff'. Maybe a few bumps have been removed. But ultimately he hasn't got a digger in to make a perfectly curved transition to make his landings effortless. He's hucking balls of a cliff to a landing that isn't all that smooth.

Ahaha, I'll stand by that to prevent further humiliation.

BTW, I still can't figure out what each spacer weighs... :L

Shhhh! I still scraped a C in maths, too! Computers and calculators are for this stuff man.

That's what I want! But they're like £300+ here for just the base. And I can't find them second hand either. I'd be fine with that and a drill press to do my weenieing.


For now I'll have to stick to spending ages with a dremel.

I still want one, lol!

I've gotta get a drill press going on. I just want one with a multi axis base so I can 'tune' parts and get some moar cheap weight weenieing down. Plus fabbing up parts.

Haha, think I could get it sub 30? I do.

I'll get some Kore Ride wides, 30mm extension bungs each side and then run some thick lockons hanging 20mm of the edge of the bar each side. Then I'll cut my steerer flush and run a high rise stem upside down. Uber wide and flat!

Yeah, they creak when the steerer flexes or there is movement between the steerer/stem interface. Which is worse with uberlight stems like mine because you can't torque the bolts up more to prevent the slight movement.

But hey, they're light!

Some headsets have the bearing as a pressed unit (like bearings in a hub), so they will be hard to remove without a bearing puller/hammer and punch. I think the PIG and Diablous headsets are this type.

My headset just won't stop creaking. It's those bloody carbon spacers!

Just wait 'til you see someone with their sealed bearings installed in the wrong way round. It's hard not to laugh whilst at the same time you don't want to offend. xD

Yeah, the top bush gets a lot of the pain on my bike. I like a lot of sag.

Never dealt with Enduro, nope. From what your comment suggests it looks like it'd be worth me doing so, though.

My bush was perfectly fine saturday morning. but at the end of saturday the bike felt like it wasn't put together. :C

The shop I work for has loads of bushes when I need them replacing. It's just a bloody hassle, and you can't get them as singles sadly.

I just bookmark'd the page so I can find a kit in the UK.

Do the needle bearings last much longer? My DU's have had about 30 hours of actual use, I need more than 3 times that life...

M-prep it is. I got a tub of it when I got my fox forks.

There is slop, yeah. But its well dampened due to the stanchion grease I rebuilt it with. Its not bad when you feel it, and it's un-noticeable on the bike.

However my shocks DU bushing is pooped because of the mud. I feel cheated as I really haven't had much life out of that bush. Considering I ride twice a week at the very most.

40g is noteable man! Every . Gram . Counts!

Don't pedal much with them, mmkay? The bushings get uber worn uber fast.

Yup, heavy, broken, worn, shredded. But grippy and the Prerunners aren't available yet.

The clamp has a slot in it for the hoses to fit between. I've also widened it.

The post is awesome, but my last 2 rides have been obscenely wet (the post has been fully submerged more than twice) and the mud is really bad. So to be sure I've serviced it every ride.

I've never used my QR seat collar since I got the post. There's 40g waiting to drop away.

Yeah. I always use road saddles because they're lighter and 90% of the time they're fine. This one was just in the 10% that aren't fine.

Retail is £34.99

I got it from the Park Tools UK distributor, Madison.

Any bike shop should be able to get it from them. But it's not exactly cheap.

It's a Specialized Toupe Ti 143, pretty damn comfy. But not strong at all. I broke 2.

Now I've got my Selle Italia SLR Carbonio Flow back on, my arse is happier, my scales are happier and my bike is happier.

SRSLY? What a crap design then. The chainline is going to suck and you'll need to run an un-necessarily heavy hub.

A Summum could be taken down to sub 30 no problems. That frame gives you a lot more options like a 135mm hub and a 73mm bb.

You should see how light I have calculated it to be possible to drop my Reign X down to. Considering it's damn light already at 29.54 with a Gravity Dropper...

If you're mad you can use Nobby Nic 2.4's. They're lighter than the Betty's. But I can't guarantee they'll ride out after sharp grass gets near them, or coarse mud (high in sand density), or anything with the slightest of sharpness....

Obtanium performance adapter is the needle bearing cage to prevent coil bind, right? If so, not necessary and loses the progressiveness...

Or, real weenies run air shocks! That'd save a good 6 oz.

Modded XT cranks are boss, it's not a lot of work for a good weight saving

An e*thirteen SRS+ with a MRP Carbon bash is just under 20g less than an LG1+

Twenty6 Prerunner pedals are going to be lighter than nukeproofs, a good 40g (nukeproof are heavier than claimed by a long shot)

SRAM is heavy, but if you're intent there is still gripshift!

CK is heavy, use A2Z or Hope's 150mm rear hub with their super light 20mm XC hub up front.

Save 10g with a carbon railed SLR, or 20 for the Technologica version (more exposed carbon, more concentrated padding)

Slice and dice the KCNC post, you can get them down to 110g or above depending on your size of cut. Use a Woodman Deathrgrip Ti clamp, 9g

Carbon bars! Syntace will soon be releasing their 740mm Vector DH (~230g). You won't miss the 2.5mm per end..

The 77 Designs stem is lighter than a Point1, also stronger. I'd advise it.

Get some comfy BMX grips, cut them right and save 50g+ doing so. That's about it really, you could get into using alloy bolts and tuning too but that's a lot to get into. I'd say you could cut at least a pound off it.

Have you added in the Weight of tubes or Stans & valve core?

Mmhmm, that it is.

Ti can flex a hell of a lot (see, Ibis Bow Ti frame), as can it bend. It'll bend a fair bit before cracking or tearing. But the chances are you'd have to bend it a lot before it's past the point of returning straight back to its original form.

I'm convinced in it being stronger than the metals too. I've seen it when alloy bars bend, and if it happens on a downhill run you better stop fast. Because they generally just tear after bending nearly instantaneously.

From my experience with alloy bars going, they tend to shear suddenly without warning. The amount they need to bend before becoming unsafe can be less than the eye or hands could notice.

Carbon is also a high risk. But you'll know if it needs to go, as you'll hear a highly audiable creak/crackle. Or you will see the weave crack through the clearcoat. Etc. It's usually noticeable.

I feel just as safe with carbon, but I agree. The pain of binning them cuts deep. I think I'll be mounting each dead bar on my wall like a hunter displays his trophy heads.

Lol. It is when the Germans try to make it thinner than sugar paper.

I'm quite impressed by carbon actually. We swapped a carbon Cervelo frame for a guy after a car hit him and broke the back end off his frame. And he asked us to dispose of the frame...

Well, it's still in the workshop. I've belted it many times with both the flat end and ball point of the hammer, used bigger hammers and even ranged to a 4 lb mallet. I then cut the frame into sections so I could see the internal and external damage bit by bit. 90% of the hits made no damage other than paint cracking. The carbon was unscathed even inside. about 5% of the hits (most likely the hits where I really tried to kill it) only made a small crack but would render the frame useless. And then there were 2 crushed sections, where the 4 lb mallet had penetrated the frame.

From what I could see, though. That carbon frame is much more versatile than any aluminium frame of similar weight. Even aluminium of a much higher weight would have been killed by hammers long before the carbon. Titanium also would have torn before carbon cracked.. (we have a section of a Litespeed downtube)

Lol, the idea behind the hub is incredible. But the attempt at making that idea work well failed.

There are no springs in the hub, just many powerful magnets!

Although that isn't where they fail, the carbon inner core seems to snap incredibly easily...

I know, eet sucks. Had a guy pretty interested yesterday. Hopefully it'll go soon. So I can buy more parts for the Reign X!

You can for one hundo and fiftae!

They've got a corrected PUSH damper with the check shim circlip replaced with a bonded aluminium sleeve to stop the damper breaking, new seals, new foam rings, new dust wipers, new bushings, new oil etc. Fairly unscratched (def. none on the stanchions).

The only problem is that the lockout doesn't return so I need to get a manual lever and remove the spring from inside the system. Which isn't hard.